Brazil 2024 - Chapada Diamantina Trekking

Palmital Falls

Suggestions

Lençóis is easily accessible from Salvador by overnight bus, or you can fly into the town. Whether you're coming for a quick 3-day trek or planning to stay for over a week to explore the area, Lençóis offers plenty of hiking opportunities. While it's possible to hike by yourself using maps.me, keep in mind that the region is remote and not many hikers are around. That's why I chose to spend my time here with a guide, ensuring a safer and more informative experience.

You don't need to book anything well in advance. There are plenty of tour operators, and the number of tourists coming to hike has significantly decreased since COVID. This means you have numerous agencies that can organize a trip for you.

I prepaid for my hike, but when I needed to change my plans, I lost some of my money. Even though it wasn't the tourist season, Star Trekking wasn't flexible with changing the start date. So, make sure to check with the provider about the flexibility of the dates in case your plans change. Also, ask them about transportation to the trailhead.

The trails are not very well marked, and in some areas, overgrowth can make it easy to lose track of the path. Hike with poles; they'll help you on the steep, rocky climbs and protect your face and feet from the overgrowth. I met a French couple who were hiking alone and having difficulties navigating certain treks. You can hike independently using MAPS.ME guidance, but since I was traveling alone, I didn't want to take any chances and opted for a guided tour.

Don't forget to pack a swimsuit, as you'll come across numerous waterfalls and pools.

Lençóis is a charming colonial town where you can easily spend a day relaxing. The bus station is clean and pleasant.

Day 1 (Lencois -> subida da Serra do Bode -> Pocao)

 

Breakfast before the Hike

I arrived at the Lençóis bus station around 5:30 AM and met Fernando there. My first impression of the town was that it would be great to spend a day wandering around. Fernando runs his own company in a small place there. The company I booked with, Star Trekking, had outsourced the job to him. He kindly let me keep my things at his place and allowed me to use his home for my toilet needs.

Fernando mentioned that his girlfriend would be joining us on the hike. While I was enjoying the carnival scene in Salvador, she wanted to escape the carnival, so she had been visiting Chapada and staying there for the past 20 days.  

After I repacked my bag for the next three days of hiking, we went out for breakfast. I had egg sandwiches and coffee. We then returned to Fernando's home and started the hike. 

The initial part of the journey involved walking about 4 to 5 miles on a gravel road, which also serves as a local road connecting villages. It was a bit disheartening to see some hikers being dropped off by motorcycles at the trailhead while we continued walking alongside passing motorcycles and jeeps.

After walking about five kilometers, we reached the actual trail, which was steep and not well-maintained by U.S. standards. Hiking up the trail was exhausting under the hot sun, and we had to bushwhack through certain sections. The trail, originally built for diamond mining, didn't have any switchbacks, making the ascent even more challenging. Despite the tough conditions, the scenery was beautiful, and thankfully, the weather was cloudy but dry.
After about two hours from the real trailhead, we met the hikers who had been dropped off by motorcycle, taking a break near a small cave once used as a shelter by miners. Fernando showed us the water channels built for mining diamonds and explained that the rocky landscape was not natural but had been altered by slaves, primarily black slaves, who were chained and forced to mine for crystals and diamonds. The diamond mining in this area lasted for almost a hundred years, involving extensive digging and moving of rocks. Since the area was once underwater before the sea receded, it was rich in minerals, crystals, and diamonds.

We continued hiking up the muddy, rocky slopes, which weren't very steep but involved continuous climbing without switchbacks. We reached our campsite around 3 PM and relaxed while Fernando started cooking lunch. The campsite, near a stream that led to a beautiful waterfall, was picturesque. The water in the stream appeared brownish-black due to minerals but was perfectly safe to drink. While lunch was being prepared, I relaxed in the stream, daydreaming.

After lunch, we carefully walked down the stream, cautious of slipping but fortunately avoiding any mishaps. We then climbed down some rocks beside the falls to reach the bottom, where we spent about an hour chilling and swimming. The camping area was stunning and peaceful, with only one other group besides us.

This backcountry campsite offered beautiful views and was just a few hours from town, yet it wasn't crowded. Most people tend to go to the Patty Valley, which was also recommended to me, and the guide confirmed the crowds there. After dinner, I chatted with the other guide, Pedro, about India and my travels. Pedro was particularly interested in India because his ex-girlfriend had lived there for almost six months and, upon returning, had set up an Indian restaurant in town.

As it got dark, it started to rain, so we all retreated to our tents for the night.

DAY 2 (Capivari Falls -> Rio Capivara -> Palmital Falls)

We stayed in our tents in the morning until the rain slowed down and had breakfast around 9 AM. By the time we packed and left, the rain had stopped, but the trail was muddy and slippery. Today's hike was challenging due to the slippery slopes. We took a break to enjoy Capivari waterfall, leaving our backpacks and walking about a kilometer downhill. Fernando was daring and encouraging, but due to the slippery rocks, we couldn’t get too close to the waterfall. It was still a beautiful spot, and we chilled there for a while before getting back on the trail.

The hike was intense, with steep, muddy, and slippery trails. We traversed the mountain edges with deep drops on our left side, but the overgrowth and trees provided some safety. We descended into a narrow gorge where two rivers, Capivari River and the Capivrara River, meet, hopping on rocks to cross. Then we climbed up a muddy trail to reach our campsite, which was sheltered by a huge rock where we set up the kitchen and pitched the tents across the creek.

This campsite was even more beautiful than the previous one. It featured a wide stream with small waterfalls and stunning rock formations, surrounded by mountain walls on three sides and opening to a beautiful valley on the other. It felt like camping at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. After setting up the tents, we walked to the Palmital waterfall, swam in the pool, and enjoyed a head shower under the falls before returning for dinner.

While wandering around the campsite, a French couple suddenly appeared. They had camped here the previous night and tried hiking to a different area using Maps.me but had to return due to steep and slippery trails where they couldn’t locate the path.

After dinner, we took more pictures as it started to drizzle. We went back to the tent and slept. I wanted to wake up in the middle of the night to see the Milky Way, but it was raining, so I went back to sleep.

Day 3 (Toca Da Onca -> Toboga Ribeirao do Meio -> Lencois)

The morning was cloudy but rain-free. After breakfast, we began our hike towards Lençóis. Today's hike was tougher than the previous day due to numerous ups and downs and slippery rocks. The scenery and vegetation constantly changed, making the hike through different sections truly beautiful with the passing clouds.

From Jaguar Point, we could see the Capivari waterfalls where we had taken a break on the second day. Although the town appeared much closer from this vantage point, there was no easy shortcut, so we had to hike around the mountain to reach Lençóis. This point seemed popular, marked with red paint to indicate the trail.

Descending the slippery rocks, we saw Ribeirão do Meio, where many people were having fun. To reach the river, we had to hop across rocks. Fernando did this with ease, but I fell and scratched my knee, regretting my decision to jump from rock to rock, though I knew I'd likely do it again.

After lunch and a swim at Ribeirão do Meio, we started walking towards town. Since it was close to Lençóis, many people were there to swim or relax. Halfway to town, it began to rain heavily, so we took shelter in a shop, enjoying a beer and browsing crystals found in the park. I wished I spoke Portuguese to converse with the friendly locals.

We reached Fernando's home around 5 PM. After leaving my stuff and taking a shower, I went out to explore Lençóis. I visited the Indian restaurant run by Pedro's ex-girlfriend but she wasn't there, so I wandered around and found a place to have acarajé, meeting a few other travelers.

That was all the time I had for Lençóis as I planned to take the night bus back to Salvador to explore the beaches in Bahia.